What’s a Psychedelic 50-Foot Mountain Doing in the Middle of the Desert?

Remembering One Man and His Candy Land-Colored Monument to Redemption By the Salton Sea

In 1984, Leonard Knight started building a mountain to proclaim his love of God on a strip of desert near Niland, California, on the east side of the Salton Sea. It began modestly with 500 bales of straw.

Over the years he transformed his mountain into a 50-foot edifice, topped with a cross and the phrase “GOD IS LOVE.” The words “Jesus I’m a sinner please come upon my body and into my heart,” which Leonard called The Sinner’s Prayer, appeared on the mountain in huge letters. Molded across its flank …

That’s Right, I Don’t Drive in Los Angeles

The Bus Has a Code of Behavior, a Pace, and an Intimacy All Its Own

There are over 6 million drivers in the county of Los Angeles, but I’m not one of them. Since 1998, when my family moved here from the Philippines, we have …

We Are LAX

Last Week Reminded Us That the Embodiment of Los Angeles Is Its Cruddy Yet Tolerated Airport

Ask a person from Los Angeles what the city’s signature public place is, and you’d probably hear about Griffith Park, Dodger Stadium, the Hollywood Bowl, or a favorite beach. But …

In Praise of Wandering ‘Over There’

True Travel Exploration Requires That You Ditch Yelp and Google Maps

On Day 4 of our recent trip to Italy, it happened again. My wife said: “Hey, let’s go over there.”

Over where? Into oblivion. Into awkwardness. Into, well, I didn’t know, because …

Conductor, Please Drop Me Off a Mile From the Airport

In California, We Wouldn’t Dream of Connecting Our Trains and Planes. That’d Be Too Far-Sighted.

A riddle. If you land at a big-city airport and there’s no train there, where are you?

Answer: California.

Yes, San Francisco, I know you’re the exception, with a BART train stop …

The Glittering Lens That Brought Me Back to Alaska

Heading Home In Search of One of the World’s Most Remote Lighthouses

One of my favorite places as a kid was the Alaska State Museum in Juneau, where I never got tired of ascending the vast spiral ramp at the entrance that …