Why This Food Writer Refuses to Review Street Vendors
If I Tell You Where to Find the Best Goat Stew in L.A., I’d Be Putting People—and Their Livelihoods—at Risk
I just had the best birria of my life. This is not an understatement. It is a claim I make as a shameless momma’s boy whose mom cooked birria once a week—and as the lucky boyfriend of a cooking school graduate who was born and raised in Jalisco, the birthplace of this spicy goat stew, where I visit and eat at least once a year.
This particular birria’s broth was as complex as a bowl of ramen or pho—maybe even more so. The dry heat of the toasted red chiles …
